Letzte Woche erreichte uns dieser Bericht von unserem Partner in Kalifornien, den wir euch auf keinen Fall vorenthalten wollen. In der Story geht es um einen verunfallten Jungen, dessen Traum es war, einmal im Leben Trestles zu surfen…
About a month ago, I received a phone call. And, from the start knew I this was not an ordinary call when the friendly woman on the end of the line identified herself as a representative of Dreams Come True of Jacksonville. She first explained that they were a non-profit that works to grant wishes to children and teens who have overcome extreme adversity in the form of illness or accidents. And, in short order, she also explained that I could be of service to them. You see, there was a teen who, as a result of massive brain trauma resulting from a car accident, had been granted one wish….to surf Trestles in our hometown of San Clemente, California. Without hesitation, it was an enthusiastic YES.
As the weeks passed, I thought about how to handle this special circumstance. Naturally, I was nervous, but at the same time incredibly excited about the opportunity to make a dream come true. There were so many unknowns – how to bring big name participation, how to document this special moment, and so much more – but that was beside the point. As I hit the phones and the streets, I reached out to local pros, but nothing quite panned out. At the heart of the matter, I wanted to make this “special” for this young man, yet as I pulled out all the stops, my vision wasn’t coming into focus in spite of my best efforts. Weeks faded into days, and in the spirit of transparency, I have to tell you that I wondered more than a few times whether I’d gotten in over my head.
I reminded myself, however, that there was one thing that wasn’t going to change. Regardless of the bells and whistles, his physical condition, or any other outside force, we were going to surf Trestles.
The day before his arrival, I finally received the phone number to reach Greyson and his family. And from that moment, I knew that my “concerns” surrounding my seemingly clouded vision were in vain. Call me far fetched, but I believe that the big names, the bells and whistles, the parade and my original plan was never meant to be. Because, at its heart and its core, this situation ran so much deeper than that. Greyson, as it turns out, is an experienced surfer and a capable one at that. He is humble. He is understated. He was not interested in spectacle. Upon delivering the news that this would be a quiet, humble affair, I immediately sensed his relief. He’d been through so much already, and he simply wanted to “score good waves” and surf Lowers once in his young life. And, so it was. Brushing all else aside, this became strictly business…and, by business I mean surfing.
Friday came and I received a call in the afternoon from Greyson letting me know they had arrived. I’d been occupied 24-7 with guests, but realized I actually had the chance to break free for the afternoon and go for a personal surf. My question was: “Hey Greyson, it’s 6 – 8 ft at Trestles. Want to go?” His folks said yes, and just like that, we loaded up the truck and set off to score some waves. That evening we surfed Upper Trestles near double overhead and by anyone’s standards, it was perfect.
And that’s how it went down. Simple as that. Beautifully simple.
The next morning me and my immediate crew of surf buddies which included Riley, as well as Jason and Damo from Australia, picked him up at 6 am and surfed in Oceanside. We spent the afternoon trying to get into some barrels at a local San Clemente beach break. A fun day. But it was Monday where things got interesting. Remember this is surfing. Perfect waves are never guaranteed.
On Monday morning at 10 am, me and the boys which includes Greyson by now, headed out to surf Lowers. Southern California’s premier surf venue. This is the arena. The spot where pro’s go to be seen, the groms make a name for themselves, and the photographers make paychecks. We exited the freeway and had caught it in between sets. Didn’t see any waves. As we unloaded the car and began to walk down the iconic trail, I realized we had nailed it. No cameras, no media, no interviews, no big name pros, no spectacle. Just the boys going surfing.
What we came upon was nothing short of another miracle. 6 foot, sheet glass, absolutely perfect Lowers. Rated on my scale as a 10 out of 10 – as good as it gets. The sun was beaming and I’ll never forget the moment he had his first look. What he was looking at was what he had dreamed of. We paddled out and within minutes I saw Greyson catch his first wave despite the crowded lineup. He mixed it up in one of the surfing world’s heaviest lineups, got waves and just like any other day, had a real fun surf. Nothing more…but isn’t this the nature of our sport? What more do you need? Good waves, good friends, good weather and thats a wrap!
Here are a few images in the album (A Weekend We Will Never Forget) from that day. In true surfer fashion, we snapped a few shots and spent the rest of the day surfing, eating good food, and frothing over how good the waves were.
This is what it’s all about. Surfing with good people and finding good waves. Enough so that a 16 year old, who by medical standards should not be here with us today, let alone be near fully recovered, chose to go surfing in California while he had the option to do anything he wanted. We are so incredibly grateful to have had this opportunity and would like to the thank Greyson himself, the entire Neumann family, and last but not least Dreams Come True of Jacksonville. We are honored to have had the chance to be part of someone’s dream and can say whole heartedly that friendships were formed that will last a lifetime.